I risked it all.
Salt water in my eye.
Sand in places I’d rather not mention.
I was out on Far Rockaway Beach in New York for my first surfing lesson. It was a hot summer day and the waves were strong and steady.
After learning the surfing basics while safely on the shore it was time for us to get in the water and try to catch a wave.
We paddled out on the boards and then turned around facing the shore to get ready to ride a wave.
The suntanned surfy-looking instructors would yell “pop up” when it was the right moment to try to stand up on the board and surf.
It was scary as the waves kept coming.
And I confess. My swimming is just ok. So I was risking it all; looking cute and my actual life.
But I wanted to know what it felt like to stand on water.
The first time I tried to pop up my feet slipped on the board and I was quickly under water.
The second time I moved too slow and by the time I went to stand the wave was on me and wrestled me down.
The third time. Well, the third time as the wave approached I popped up and surfed on top of water for the first time.
I was officially a surfer and there wasn’t much you could say to me. (Here I am in your inbox still talking about it).
I was also soaked from head to toe.
Walking on the shore after riding a wave, I looked back at the water and saw other women on the trip deep in the water with dry hair.
As the waves came, they would put their knees on the board and ride. They never tried to stand.
They weren’t willing to risk falling under water, but also not willing to reach for their chance to stand up and surf, an incredible high.
I hope summer is being good to you!
I hope when life serves you a chance you play full out, that you stand tall and take the opportunity.
Summer is treating me like I owe her money.
I got COVID in New Orleans at Essence Festival.
Thankfully my symptoms stayed mild.
Being quarantined gave me some time to myself.
To keep me motivated, I decided to update the screensaver on my phone.
I chose the image of me surfing to remind myself I can do new and hard things.
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I can do hard things.
I can always try again.
Either I win or learn – never lose.
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